A behind-the-walls look at the pipes in your home's plumbing system. Learn how to perform minor plumbing repairs in the bath, kitchen and basement

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Save on your water bills, and help conserve one of our most precious resources.

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Leaking Toilet - Do it yourself!

Now with a leaky toilet it isn’t hard to tell what exactly needs to be fixed. You need a new toilet seal. Before you go objecting, making this repair isn’t as complicated as you might think. Yes it can get a little messy, but here is all you have to do.

First there are a few things you are going to need:

• A good pair of gloves to protect your hands
• Boots
• Wrench
• Plunger
• Rag or Old Wash Cloth
• Large Plastic Bag
• Sponge
• Toilet seal
• Putty Knife

The very first thing you should do before anything else, is shut off the water supply that supports the toilet. This can be done by just merely turning the valve located inside the tank or the valve located on the wall behind the toilet.

Once the water is off, hold down the toilet handle and keep flushing it until all of the water is out. If there still is little water left then you can take your sponge and wipe it out. You can also use your plunger to get out as much water a possible. After this is done you must disengage the supply line at the tank.

Now your wrench becomes very, very handy. Using your wrench to take out all the nuts and bolts connecting the toilet to the floor. When you finishing unfastening the nuts and bolts from the toilet then you will be able to yank it free from the floor and set it down out of your way.

After the toilet is free you will see your old toilet seal. Most likely to be dirty and rusted out. Now all you need to do is scrape off the old toilet seal. Do this with your putty knife. The putty knife will make it easy for you.

When you’re buying a new toilet seal make sure you purchase the one with a flange. If you have two toilet seals on your toilet you can purchase a seal with a flange and one with beeswax. If you have only one seal then it’s advisable that you buy the seal with a flange that way your toilet won’t have any leaks for a long time.

Now that y ou have your new seal, and the old one is removed, you can begin the process of replacing the seal. Take the seal from the plastic wrapping it comes in and place it on the metal flange. Make sure the seal sticks to it and is secure.
Then picking up the toilet place it back over the seal hole, like it was before. The toilet should sit right over or on top of the seal. The toilet has to be lined up according to where each bolts are, that way nothing is out of place that can cause another leak.

Now that the toilet is properly placed back to its former position you can begin putting the nuts, bolts and washers back. Double check to make sure everything is in its lines up.

After the toilet is placed in the right position pressure will need to be applied to the toilet, just sit on it, to make sure it goes all the way to the floor. The only thing left to do is to tighten all the bolts and reconnect the water supply.

After the toilet bowl has water in it again flush the toilet just to see if it still leaks. If it doesn’t then you have successfully repaired the old leak in your toilet. What’s even better is that you did it without spending more than fifteen dollars.

Now that’s a deal you can’t beat! You’re beaming with satisfaction and now you know that next time something goes wrong with your toilet that with a little help you can do it yourself!

How A Water Heater Works

Most problems with water heaters are announced by noises or by water that's either too hot or not hot enough. Often you can correct the problem yourself. A possible exception is a water leak, which may require professional service or tank replacement. Gas leaks call for immediate help from the Plumber.

Whenever someone turns on a hot water faucet, heated water is drawn from the top of the tank and is replaced by cold water that is carried to the bottom through the dip tube. When the water temperature drops, a thermostat activates the heat source (a burner in a gas model -- two heating elements is an electric.) A gas heater has a flue running up the center and out the top to vent deadly gasses. An electric water heater needs no venting. In both, an anti-corrosion anode attracts corrosion that would otherwise attack the tank's walls.

Maintenance For Good, Safe Service

• Open the drain valve at the bottom about every 6 months, letting the water run into a bucket until it looks clear. This will prevent sediment accumulation.
• Annually test the temperature-pressure relief pressure buildup by lifting or depressing its handle and draining water from the overflow pipe. If water doesn't drain out, call in a plumber to inspect.

Water Heater Safety Tip

If steam or boiling water ever comes out of the valve or the hot water faucets, shut the heater off at once. If you ever hear a rumbling sound, assume the heater is overheating and turn it off.

Water Temperature

If temperature is a problem on a gas heater, check that the temperature control is on and is set correctly . If you suspect a faulty control, test it by opening a hot water faucet for 3 minutes. If the heater doesn't turn on, reset the control to a lower temperature and test again. If it still fails, have it replaced.

Troubleshooting Gas Water Heaters

Knowing how to light the pilot is one key to living with a gas water heater; see the instructions on the tank. For safety, a gas heater has a thermocouple. This is thermoelectric device that impinges on the pilot flame and shuts off the gas if the pilot light goes out. The gas flame should be blue. If it's orange, adjust the shutter; if it's still orange, call for service.

Twice a year, inspect the flue assembly to be sure it's properly aligned and all its joints are sealed. Then check the flue by placing your hand near the draft diverter (with the burner on); air flowing out indicates an obstruction that should be removed. Every year or two, shut off the gas, remove the access panel, and clean the burner ports, using stiff wire or a needle. If you ever smell gas, get out of the house immediately and call the gas company.

*Note premature failure on water heaters (and plumbing fixtures) is most often attributed to excessive water pressure (above 80 p.s.i.). Your plumber can test your water pressure to see if it is within safe limits, and make suggestions to reduce pressure if necessary.

There is no hot water.

Check for:
• Unlit pilot light.
• Pilot light won't keep burning.
• Clogged burner
• Defective thermocouple.
• The gas is not coming out.

Remedies:
• Carefully relight the pilot.
• Make sure the gas controls are completely turned on. Then check the thermocouple and be sure it is firmly connected to the gas control unit and positioned near the pilot flame.
• Call a qualified plumbing contractor.
• Replace the thermocouple.
• Inspect or test gas control valve

There isn't enough hot water.

Check for:

• Incorrectly set thermostat.
• Defective thermostat.
• Too small of a water tank
• Clogged burner.
• Sediment has formed in the tank.
• Leaking hot water faucets.

Remedies:
• Turn the thermostat higher.
• Call a qualified plumbing contractor.
• Install a larger water tank.
• Turn off the gas and drain the tank.
• Repair or replace the faucets.

The water heater is very noisy.

Check for:
• Scale and sediments in the tank.

Remedy:
• Turn off the gas and drain the tank.

The water is too hot.

Check for:
• Wrong setting on thermostat.
• Defective thermostat.
• Blocked exhaust vent.

Remedies:
• Reset the thermostat.
• Call a qualified plumbing contractor.
• Check the vent and clear it.

Water is leaking from the heater.

Check for:
• Leak in the draincock.
• Leaking safety valve.
• Hole in the tank.
• Leak in the plumbing connection.

Remedies:
• Close it tightly or replace it.
• Check the water temperature. If it's too hot, the thermostat may be broken. If the safety valve is defective, replace it.
• Buy a new water heater.
• Call a plumber.
• *Note premature wear & tear on water heaters (and plumbing fixtures) is most often attributed to excessive water pressure (above 80 p.s.i.). See information related to pressure reducing valves.

Troubleshooting Electric Water Heaters

When an electric heater has problems, suspect the heating elements, their thermostats, and the high-temperature cutoff. The two heating elements (upper and lower), immersed in water, are controlled by thermostats which, along with the high-temperature cutoff, are concealed behind a panel on the side (insulation must be cut away for access after removing the panel). If the high-temperature cutoff has tripped due to water that's too hot, the solution may be as easy as pushing the reset button. High voltage and inaccessibility warrant a service call to adjust the thermostats, reset the high-temperature cutoff, or to replace any of these components of the heating elements themselves.

There is no hot water.

Check for:
• The heater has no power.
• The safety thermostat has quit working.
• Defective heating thermostat.
• Defective heating elements.
• Accumulation of rust, scale, or sediment in the tank or pipes.

Remedies:
• Check the fuse box/ circuit breaker.
• If the heater repeatedly blows fuses call your plumber.
• Push the reset button.
• Test the heating thermostats and elements.
• Test the thermostats and replace if necessary.
• Test the elements and replace if necessary.
• Drain and flush the tank and pipes.

The hot water supply is too low.

Check for:
• Thermostat is set wrong.
• The tank is too small.
• Heat is getting loose in the pipes.
• Defective heating element.
• Leaking hot water faucets.

Remedies:
• Turn the thermostat to a higher temperature.
• Install a larger heater.
• Move the heater nearer to the point of use if possible.
• Insulate the hot water pipes.
• Test the element then replace it.
• Repair or replace the faucets.

The water temperature is too high.

Check for:
• Thermostat is on the wrong setting.
• Inadequate insulation around the thermostats.

Remedies:
• Turn up the thermostat.
• Add insulation around the thermostats.
• Test the thermostat and replace if necessary.

There is a water leak.

Check for:
• Defective gasket or seal on the element.
• Defective safety valve.
• The tank is rusted through.
• Leaking plumbing connections.

Remedies:
• Check and replace gasket or seal.
• Check and replace the safety valve.
• Consider replacing water heater.
• Call a qualified plumbing contractor.

The heater becomes unusually noisy.

Check for:
• Accumulation of rust, scale or sediment in the tank.
• Scale has formed on the elements.

Remedies:
• Drain the tank and flush it out.
• Remove the elements, soak with vinegar and then scrape off the scale.

Your hot water pipe is rusty or discolored.

Check for:
• Accumulation of rust or sediment in the tank.
• Scale has formed on the elements.
• Corroded water pipe.

Remedies:
• Drain the tank.
• Remove the elements, soak them in vinegar and then scrape off the scale.
• Have a plumber inspect for necessary repairs.